Custom Ordering Instruction Guide

 

Size:     Size is determined through the use of a tape template, plaster, fiberglass or foam mold. Size can be specified in inches, however this neglects to show contour and recession needed on unit. (Contour is the curvature of the head. Recession is the shape of the front hairline. Both are necessary to provide a proper custom fit and natural look to the finished piece. See our separate sheet for instructions on making a Template or our Educational Training Tape to help. You may also send us an old system that fits properly to use as a template.

 

Base Materials:

The base material ring shows the types of Mesh available for interior of unit, fronts, and Tape/Bonding areas. Use “Draw Base Design” diagram on the order form to show specifically of where you want base materials, as well as tape tab size.

 

Types of Hair:

Synthetic: Grey hair is synthetic.

The factory uses a blend of Kanekalon and Toupelon for Synthetic fibers.

    Kanekalon: Warm base colors (red tones). It is coarser and will hold the curl the best.

    Toupelon: Very fine texture. Has ash (green) tones.

Yak Hair; Yak hair is of organic origin (animal) and is most often used when human hair is desired for grey instead of synthetic for grey. It can be treated as human hair and will accept chemical perming or coloring.

We are now very pleased to be able to offer 3 types of human hair for your custom made hair system-they are:                                  

Regular Indian or Chinese Human Hair:

This hair has gone through an acid bath stripping most of the cuticle from the hair. This hair has been chemically colored to match your hair sample.

Remy Human Hair-
Remy hair is of Indian origin collected from various temples in India, where people go and offer their hair to Lord Tirumala in reverence. The specialty of this hair is that when the hair is cut from the devotees head, they are cut in a pony tail or braided form thus keeping all the cuticles in the same direction. The Remy hair when used properly in hair ventilation of hair pieces or on a weft do not tangle and have a smooth feeling when you run your finger from top to bottom. This is hair that does NOT go through an acid bath. Because it still has the cuticle on it is stronger than regular hair used in hair pieces. This is a good middle of the road quality of hair for those who want better than our regular hair but don’t want to pay for Russian European hair.

Russian European Human Hair-
This hair is truly the most beautiful fine European hair available in the world. It is NOT imitation THIS CAUCASIAN HAIR HAS NOT BEEN CHEMICALLY PROCESSED AT ALL. It has only been combed out and ran through a hackle so there is very little waste. This hair is most desirable. This is the finest European human hair available in the world. Salons charge their clients many hundreds, if not thousands more just to have this type of hair used for hair systems (if they can get it). This is the hair that movie stars and rich people use. It is so nice that everybody who tries it loves it. Especially the long hair is wonderful.
NOW ITS AFFORDABLE TO EVERYONE!! See price list.  

Finished Hair Length:

Finished hair length is from the knot to the end of hair before curling.

No extra charge for lengths up to 6".

Long hair charges will apply to length 8" and longer. See price list.             

 

Undervent:

Undervent is a row of hair vented into the bottom of base along the outside perimeter. Used at the front hairline it helps to conceal the edge of base material that is not scalloped or made of lace. Light is 1 row, Medium is 2 rows and Heavy is 3 rows of underventing. We do not recommend underventing on lace units, scallop fronts, or Micro thin Poly skin (graft material) fronts. Doing this would show too heavy of a solid line on these materials and defeat the purpose of using that material.

 

Part Appearance:

Some type of hair direction must be given on the order. This indicates to the factory how to ventilate the hair to give it stylability. If you want a definite whorl in the crown, check the location on order form. If you want a definite or diffused part, check location on form. Freestyle is vented forward from the crown position, and can be combed or parted anywhere. On the picture “Draw Hair Direction” you may want to draw how the client wishes to comb their hair.                     

 

Density:

Many things such as base material, hair length and type of hair/fiber used will affect the finished appearance of Density. The Density chart shows how thick the hair will come on the unit. Example: Medium Density is 100% thickness of a normally full head of hair. Light Density is 80% thickness on a normally full head of hair, etc.

 

Waves & Curls:

Any amount of curl can be chosen for Synthetic hair. Human hair can only be curled at the factory. Generally curl appears to hold well. Blondes and longer lengths do not respond well to a curl. It may over process the hair and is not recommended. Due to many variables (length, density, color, organic origin) each human hair reacts differently during curling procedure. We cannot guarantee a consistent exact curl. We give it our best try, without a guarantee of results. This is a professional perm rod size guide:

Red/yellow                    3/16"                 4-5mm  Afro

Blue                              5/16"                 6 mm                loose afro

Pink                              3/8"                  10-13mm          tight curl

Grey/white                    7/16"                 13-15mm          loose curl

Lavender                       ½"                    18-20mm          tight wave        

Peach/black                   9/16"                 22mm               medium wave   

Orange                          3/4"                  25mm               light wave

Green                            1"                     30mm               Slight body

40mm               Straight

 

Color- Hair Samples:

Color may be determined by the use of a Synthetic color ring, hair samples or a combination of both. When hair samples are sent, check sample to see if one end is lighter than the other. If grey has yellow tones, specify is we should match the yellow or use white grey. Check color samples carefully, cut off any oxidized or discolored ends. Submit ONLY the color desired, and enough to be able to accurately see the real color.

Grey: Specify Synthetic or YAK for grey. Always specify “total” grey percentage to help eliminate misinterpretation or miscalculation of finished percentages. Our grey percentage ring can assist you in determining amount of grey to order.

If clients hair color varies significantly all over the head, then clip samples from different areas. Place each sample in a small zip lock bag and mark a letter on bag, i.e.; A, B, etc. Then write the corresponding letter on correct area on order form.

Hilites: This adds lighter tones to base color for a frosted effect. Color sample for Hilites must be sent and will blended with base color as you specify. Percentage of highlight and areas to be highlighted must also indicated.

 

Tape-Bonding Areas:

Draw on “base design” picture exactly where you want tape tab area. State width-average is 3/4 inch. Tape tab material must also be specified. Polyurethane (PU) is the most popular for sides and back. It can be specified a ‘coated’ or ‘clear’. Clear Poly skin works well as a scalloped front edge tape tab.

Ribbon may be specified on sides and back, not on the front unless this is an integration (pull through) system. Ribbon is used for cable weave track and sew method of attachment or clips. Lace  or micro thin poly skin (graft) fronts or full systems give the most real looking hairline. However these materials are very fragile and do not hold up as well as other materials do. This is why they cannot be guaranteed for any length of time. Client must be very gentle. Up to 6 months is about all the client should expect from fragile materials.

If ordering a replaceable front or full fragile unit, it is recommended that you order 2 at a time. This way client can wear one while the repair is being done on the other.  Typically this is a lot less cost for the client than having a whole new system made. Replaceable fronts are attached with Cindycut Lacestik frontal tape, SoftLoc or Ultrabond. These are medical grade adhesives applied directly to clients skin.

 

Miscellaneous:

Perimeter: All meshes must be finished around the edge. Only lace and poly materials need no finished edge. Edges maybe finished with PU, ribbon, or folded 1/8" lace (front). Be sure to specify width of tape tab area (1/4", ½", 3/4", 1", etc).

Repair: Our repairs include hair addition, base repair, PU coat, and change lace front (extra cost). We do not recommend repairs to full thin Poly skin bases, full lace units or extremely aged hairpieces. When sending in a repair, please specify on the order form ‘this is a repair’ and include all relevant information, i.e.; hair direction, type of hair, length, wave, density, color. To eliminate errors do not leave these decisions up to the factory. Due to the possibility of continued hair loss, base distortion, color changes etc., we do NOT guarantee repairs. If upon receipt of the order we determine the unit is not repairable, we will contact you immediately for advice.